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Face shapes

The following are recognised as being one of the four basic shapes;

 

 

Square face

 

Square face shape is straight lines, distinctive jaw line. Faces being wider and shorter.

Objectives

• Soft in the angle
• Narrow at the jaw 
• Add length 
• Detail – no wider than the broadest part of the face 
• Decoration or contrast in colour in temple 
• Slightly heavy on top of the frame 
• High side position

Avoid sharp angles, low side positions and round frames. They are basically complementing a square face with frames that are slightly curved, the top of the frame should sit high enough on the face to down play the jaw line.

 

Oval face

 

Perceived as the perfect face shape, features can be defined or softened.

Objective

• Generally features a balance
• Frame should be slightly wider than the temple

Details

• Any frame that is not extreme
• Avoid low temple detail 
• Round frames and harsh angles

In general most frames look good with this face shape than any other face shape.

 

Rectangular face

 

Longer face and a stronger chin, chiselled cheek bones. Long narrow faces are similar to square faces in that the chin and the cheek are nearly the same width. Facial length, however, is far greater than the width.

Objective

• Visual break in length
• Details – wider at sides 
• Low bridge 
• Details on the sides 
• Square frame/rounded sides 
• Gap frame, details on the top of the frame

Avoid short frames, rectangular frames. Frames should cover as much of the centre of the face as possible in order to minimise the length.

 

Round face

 

Soft features with little definition.

Objective:

• Increase the definition around the cheek bones
• Draw eye up 
• Elongate features

Details

• Colour at the sides, not decoration, slightly curved, shaped lower at frame, angle along the brow

Avoid round and deep oval frames

To play down the roundness select frames with straight or angular lines. Deep colours like black or tortoise also minimise the roundness.

 

Nose shapes

 

Large nose

Large over sized frames are recommended for balance. Small frames will accentuate the nose. Lower and large bridge sizes are recommended.

Long nose

Frames with high side bars that draw attention upwards towards the temple and away from the nose are a good chose. A double bridge helps the nose to appear short.

Small nose 

A high bridge and light colour lengthens a short nose or a nose that is small in proportion with the rest of the face.

Thin nose

You must have a narrow bridge.

As a general rule, when using frame shape for cosmetic emphasis, the eyebrow line determines the upper area of the frame, whereas the line of the cheek and jaw determines the lower frame area. The lower frame area near the nose should follow the nasal contour of the face.

Another important effect that may be accomplished through the use of the lower rim is to help conceal the bags that many people have under the eyes.

Many of the effects caused by the lightness or darkness of frame go hand in hand with frame colour. As with frame colour, the smaller and more dedicated the features, the lighter (thinner) frame should be. The larger and broader the feature the heavier (thicker) the frame should be.

 

Colour

Colour is a dominating feature, it can influence or detract. It is essential to understand the chief characteristics of colour so that you can effectively use colour in your frames. Quite simply, colour should create visual harmony, complimenting your natural complexion or suiting your make up.

When helping with colour there are two characteristics, one is called depth (how light or dark your overall appearance is) and complexion (how warm or cool your overall complexion is).

 

Depth

General impressions:

Dark Colouring
Dark eyes	Dark Hair	Suggested Frame Colour
Brown	Chestnut	Metal:	Plastic:
Hazel	Auburn	Charcoal	Deep green
Green	Black	Pewter	Red
Brown		Dark Brown	Burgundy
Black		Black	Brown
		Bronze	Black
Light Colouring
Light eyes	Fair Hair	Suggested Frame Colour
Blue	Blonde	Metal:	Plastic:
Green	Light Brown	Pewter	Grey
Aqua		Silver	Pink
		Light Grey	Violet
		Yellow Gold	Light Blue
		White Gold	White
			Beige
			Lemon
			Aqua

Warm colouring

Eyes	Hair	Skin	Suggested Frame Colour
Hazel	Golden Brown	Caucasian:	Black:	Asian:	Metal:	Plastic
Warm Brown	Chestnut	Ivory	Bronze	Golden Beige	Copper	Orange
Topaz	Red	Warm Freckles	Carmel	Ivory	Bronze	Warm Red
Green	Brown	Golden Beige	Mahogmany	Bronze	Gold	Rust
	Black		Golden Brown			Teal Blue
						Tortoiseshell
						Warm Green

Cool colouring

Eyes	Hair	Skin	Suggested Frame Colour
Grey Brown	Deep Blonde	Caucasian:	Black	Asian	Metal:	Plastic:
Rose Brown	Ash Brown	Pink	Rose Brown	Grey Beige	Silver	Navy Blue
Blue Green	Ash Blonde	Rose	Grey Brown	Rose Beige	Gunmetal	Blue Green
Greyed Blue		Beige	Coco Dark Brown	Suntanned Sallow	Pewter	Lilac
		Olive				Mauve
						Pink

 

Tints

Warm tones – Apricot, Amber, Peach
Cool tones – Grey, Blue, Lilac, Blue Grey

 

Personal Style

Spectacles are by no means the only accessory that can change the visual proportions and shape of the face. However, they are a major influence in taking the eyes from less flattering features to more positive elements of the face.

For example:

The frame itself automatically shortens the face. Frame details and colour can lead the eye to more flattering features.

Glasses should compliment;

• Face shape
• Colouring 
• Features 
• Light 
• Style 
• Personality

Glasses can positively influence character by adding;

• Confidence
• Status 
• Authority 
• Trust 
• Sincerity 
• Quality

They can also project personality into personal appearance;

• Trendy
• Classics 
• Fun 
• Stylish 
• Creative 
• Tasteful 
• Handsome 
• Sophisticated 
• Educated 
• Masculine 
• Chic

 

Proportions

Ideally, frames should compliment the size and shaping of facial features.

 

Facial Features

Forehead

A high forehead can take a bar. The added horizontal bar across the face breaks a high forehead also, ideal for long, rectangular faces, heavy brow. Adding colour is also effective.

Brows

The top of the frame should fit along the brow line. Brows are a feature of facial communication and their presence should not be obstructed. Frame tops should follow the brow line and shape, not cover it.

Cheekbones

Generally, these are positive facial features. To enhance cheekbones, the frame can be either soft or angled with an upward or outward design.

Avoid;

Frames that droop at the lower frame on older faces – they can produce an unhappy expression.

Frames that are too deep – more cheek than eye area

Eyes

Small eyes

Light frames with details away from the nose and inner cheek. Eyes close set Light bridge Eyes wide set Dark bridge

Nose

No bridge Toggle bridge Long nose Lower bridge Thin nose Narrow Bridge Short nose High bridge

• Ideally the frame size should compliment the size of the face.
• If the frame is too small the face will appear larger and visa versa. 
• Details on the frame and colour can be realistically exaggerated on a large scale face.

 

FIVE BASIC FITTING RULES FOR FRAMES

1. EYES – should be central in the frame.

2. FRAME WIDTH – frames should not press on your customers’ temples, nor should there be a large gap between the frame sides and your customers’ head.

3. BRIDGE SIZE – if the bridge is too small, the frame may sit too high on your customers’ face, so their eyebrows are visible through the lenses. Once the prescription lenses are in the frame, there will be pressure on the nose causing discomfort to your customer. If the bridge is too large the frame will constantly slip and may touch your customers’ cheeks, making the frame move every time they smile! This causes annoyance and discomfort for your customer. The bridge of the frame should fit the nose following the natural lines of the nose. There should not be air gaps between the frame and the nose, only nose pads can alter this fit.

4. THE SIDE (TEMPLE) LENGTH - the length of the side should extend to the bend of the ear. If the sides are too long, the frame will slip if they are too short the frames will be very uncomfortable. Even pressure over ear Even pressure into head

5. COSMETIC APPEARANCE – We’re sure your frames from David Clulow will make you feel and look great!

 

LENSES AND COATINGS

Sunglass Lenses

Material	Benefits	Recommended for	Recognised by
Plastic CR39	- Lightweight - Safe - Easily tinted (different colours for optimum performance in various uses) - 100% UV Protection	- General purpose use - Customers who don’t like heavy glasses - Children	- Dull noise when tapped
Glass	- Hard (scratch resistant) - 100% UV Protection - Excellent optical quality	- Customers who want optimum vision	- High “ping” sound when tapped
Polycarbonate	- Lightweight - Up to 25% thinner than CR39 - Impact resistant	- All sports - Children	- Dull again when tapped Very light Thin

More

• Plastic lenses are tinted by dipping the lens in a tint bath and the colour is absorbed into the outer surface of the lens approximately 1mm all the way round. This is know as a Dye Tint.
• Glass lenses are usually made from tinted glass and the tint goes right through the lens. This is known as a Solid Tint. These tints are fine for Plano (no prescription) lenses as the thickness is even across the lens, with solid tints you must take great care when adding a prescription as the tint will vary in depth of colour as a lens is thicker or thinner. (thinner areas appear lighter and thicker areas appear darker) 
• Plastic lenses are, as a rule easier to scratch than glass. All designer lenses have a hard coating to compensate for this. 
• All genuine sunglasses marked with a CE mark are 100% UV protective.

 

SUPERIOR LENS QUALITY

All of the sunglasses we retail are:

• Distortion free
• Fully UV protected 
• Scratch resistant coated

Many of the cheap and counterfeit sunglasses available today are none of the above:

• Distortion and scratched lenses provide poor vision
• The pupil behind a sunglass lens dilates allowing more light into the eye. If there is no UV protection this can be harmful.

 

The Protection Factor

What is Glare?

• The definition of glare is – “intense and shining light”
• People have different sensitivity to glare 
• Blocking out visible and reflected light reduces glare 
• A polarised lens is the only lens type which effectively reduces all forms of glare

Sunglass tints

Colour	Features	Recommended for
Brown	- Brown lenses are very good for variable light conditions - When light is low it is a possibility definition is maintained with a brown lens - Brown lenses absorb a great deal of Blue light, which causes haze, this improves contrast and definition	- Driving in hazy conditions or as the sun is rising and setting - Skiing in flat light conditions or light cloud - Any low light conditions - General purpose
Grey, Green or Grey/Green (G15)	- Grey/Green light is in the middle of the spectrum of light and is on the wavelength our eyes perceive best - Grey/Green does not alter colour perception - Good for all purpose sunglasses	- General purpose for those who want a neutral vision with true colour perception
Yellow and Amber	- Yellow acts similarly to a brown lens in that it provides a Blue light filter which improves contrast. - These lenses provide excellent images in low light conditions and where definition is essential.	- Cycling - Shooting - General sports where contrast and definition is needed - Tennis
Others	- Most other coloured lenses are for cosmetic purposes and will offer varying protection dependent on colour and light absorption. They will provide full UV protection.	- Fashion, Red/Yellow colours will increase contrast, making life look “brighter”!

 

 

COATINGS

 

Scratch Resistant Hard Coating

This protective coating fills in the pores on the surface of any plastic lens. This makes the lens surface more resistant to scratching. All plastic lenses should be sold with the coating.

Advantages

• The obvious main benefit is that the lenses are not easy to scratch. This means they will last longer for the patient

 

Multi-Layer Anti reflectIon coating

Anti reflective coatings are available on both glass and plastic lenses. They do the opposite of a tint, they allow more light into the eye by reducing reflections on the surface of the lenses. Observers can see the eyes more clearly and the wearer will have a better, more natural quality of vision.

Conventional lenses transmit only 87% of the light to the eye, the other 13% shows up in reflection and glare. A multi AR coated lens transmits nearly 99% of available light.

Advantages

• Eyes can be seen clearly
• Better appearance 
• Better eye contact 
• Vision is clearer 
• Images are sharper since more light is coming into the eyes, reduced glare because there are not reflections, (this is especially important for night driving) 
• Reduces eye strain, eyes are not as stressed when reflections are eliminated. • Lenses appear to be almost invisible, without reflections so they are cosmetically more attractive.

Disadvantages

There are really none but just to be aware that they get dirty and fingerprints and dirt are more noticeable than on uncoated lenses.

 

TINTS

Tinting is the process of taking a clear white lens and putting colour into the lens. Tints can be very light at 10% or very dark at 80%. The percentage states the amount of light cut out by using the colour on the lenses. Plastic lenses are the easiest to tint and you can vary the amount of tint whether it is dark or light or graduated. It is more difficult to tint glass lenses, the colour is added to the glass lens.

Advantages

• Tint can cut down glare from light
• 10% will cut down the glare inside. 80% will cut down the glare from bright sun 
• There are benefits for medical uses. Some of the first uses of these were for light sensitivity due to some eye disease 
• Tints can be used for cosmetic purposes 
• Yellow tints illuminate objects and make them stand out. This makes them especially good for indoor sports such as tennis and early morning sports. During fog, yellow tints cut through the white haze and make them easier to see. .Contact lens wearers are often sensitive to glare. Sunglasses block anywhere from 50% to 90% glare of the eye. When wearing contact lenses people are often sensitive to wind and particles flying through the air. Sunglasses protect the eye and are a benefit when wearing them over contact lenses.

Disadvantages

• Avoid certain tints when it gets dark outside. Do not wear anything darker than 30% after dark. Wearing such a tint creates tunnel vision and eliminates edge vision. This can be especially dangerous while driving at night.
• Constantly wearing tints indoors or at night makes the person more and more sensitive to light.

 

Photochromic and Transitions

Photochromic lenses are lenses that change colour, depending on light conditions. As a rule of thumb one can say they react. They start from a very light 10% colour and darken to around 70/80%. Originally, they were only available in glass, however, with recent technology they are available in plastic and polycarbonate – known as Transitions. Be sure to check availability in any high index material, glass, plastic or polycarbonate.

 

Mirrorred lenses

Advantages

• Mirror lenses filter ultra and infra red better than a tinted lens
• Mirror coatings transmit only 10% of the blue end of the colour spectrum and 55% of the red of the colour spectrum. This makes the mirror very effective in bright sun. To keep the sensitivity of the sun down, yet give effective colour perception. For this reason, mirrors are popular with skiers. 
• Mirrors have anti reflection coating on them to reduce back reflection

Disadvantages

• Mirrors are very dark. Example, if a person goes from a very dark sunlight to an underground part it becomes very difficult, if not impossible to see.
• Mirror lenses can scratch easily.

 

Polarised lenses

• Direct sunlight is un-polarised which means it travels in many different directions at deferring angles.
• Light that has been reflected (from a mirror, water, snow, road surface etc..) is partially polarised in the plain parallel to the surface of reflection. 
• A Polarised lens blocks out light that has been reflected in one or the other plain (vertical or horizontal) thus reducing the effect of glare. 
• Polarised lenses are ideal for all water sports (fishing, sailing etc..) snow sports and driving.

 

Polaroid

Polaroid lenses are laminated with a polarised filter and more effectively reduce the glare of reflection from smooth surfaces from snow or water. It is excellent for people who fish.

 

UV Block

A coating that can easily be applied to most lenses to protect the eye from damaging UV rays from the sun. Benefits to our customer is 100% block from all UV rays which is the ultimate in eyecare for adults and children, protecting both their eyes and the delicate skin around them.

 

Putting Sunglasses to Use

Here are some solutions to common practical problems.

Usage	Problem	Solution
Driving	- Low, hazy light at the beginning and end of the day - Optimum vision required - Contrast enhancement required	- Brown lenses for contrast - Anti reflection coating to reduce reflections and provide optimum vision
Skiing	- Reflected Polarised light, high UV radiation and intense glare - Low light levels in cloud	- Brown tint for improved contrast - Mirror coating to reduce reflected glare - Polycarbonate for lightness and impact resistance
Fishing / Water Sports	- Reflected Polarised light - High exposure to UV radiation	- Polarised lenses in Brown or Grey allowing the wearer to see into the water
Sports	- Glare and reduced contrast - Variable light conditions - Dangerous conditions	- Tints recommended depending on light levels - Polycarbonate for safety - Sunglasses with interchangeable lenses are ideal